ATOCHA. The staff is friendly and eager to serve. Savour the warm welcome and sip one of 300 vintages. Sample by the glass or bottle. Tuesdays feature tasting and wine-connoisseur sessions. METRO: Antón Martín

SALAMANCA. Imbibe in regal style among the stag heads and stuffed grouse. The most popular of the 100+ cocktails here include the Balmoral, Bullet Shot and Bloody Mary. Grab an armchair by the fireplace and relax in one of the "best bars in the world," according to "Newsweek" magazine. METRO: Serrano

CENTRO. This cozy, central café features an antiquated interior with mirrors, bar stools, and plenty of dark, stained wood. The rear sitting area has a few coffee tables and chairs. Also an upstairs lounge has built-in couches and a window that overlooks the square. Café del Real gets packed fairly frequently with see-and-be-seen-types sipping coffee and beer. METRO: Ópera.

CENTRO. This bar was a favorite of Frank Sinatra, Ava Gardner and that bull-fighting fool Ernest Hemingway (Papa's table is in the near righthand corner). Despite some very average tapas, it remains a popular tourist spot. The decor and the waiters' garb are reminiscent of a Teutonic bierkeller, lending an historic air. METRO: Sevilla or Sol

CENTRO. Located near the Royal Palace, "The Old King of Wines" bar opened in 1909 and has not changed much since. Inside are interesting photographs of Madrid at the turn of the century. Venture beyond standard tapas to sweet vermouth from the barrel, served with a tiny dipping cookie. The house specialty is "torrijas": bread slices soaked in milk and fried, served with cinnamon and honey. METRO: Ópera